Tuesday, December 11, 2012

A deceptively beautiful and humbling welcome.

A mid-September sunset shows the colors of Shanghai like never before. 

Having arrived back in Shanghai in mid-September, after a long summer in Michigan and various other parts of the states, I was greeted by the most beautiful sunset of any I've seen in Shanghai. Periwinkle, lavender, magenta, and vermillion steamed from a molten epicenter of cadmium yellow and gold (even the finely attuned iPhone eye couldn't improve upon this).

In a word the skies were awesome.

The unfortunate and toxic reality is, that without the dangerous particulates suspended in mid-air this gorgeous animation doesn't happen.

As if unexpectedly entering the realm of drifting medusae while snorkeling. It's easy to be carried away by the intense colors meant to serve warning as to what belies the poor soul ignorantly invading the mesmerizing choreography of lappets. In this case, simply breathing during mildly, strenuous exertion is enough to do some damage according the environmental air quality reports.

The truths of Shanghai are starting to emerge for me. After spending the first year here as a tourist on extended holiday the veneer is starting to wear thin. As I told Kris, upon my return, this maybe the year I see Shanghai for what it is. However, being the perpetual optimist, I promised to keep an eye on the beautiful side as we gasp like golden carp out of water.

Within a few days my optimism was rewarded by the aftermath of a typhoon reaching the shores of Shanghai. On successive days the clouds spun in from the east they seemed to ride upon the rays of setting suns accompanied by the chorus from some Mozartian opera relegating the skyline to a humble silhouette.


Typhoon clouds envelop a Shanghai sunset.


The last of the typhoon clouds float past a Shanghai sunset.

 

© Karl Shaffer 2012

After much introspection I beg to differ.



As reported by @ http://www.poppaganda.net/


I recently crossed paths with a cynical young westerner on the Bund. Without a word spoken his cynicism fell upon me like a the stench of an open sewer in old Hongkou.

It was his brand new black tee shirt pictured above.

Being one to curiously try the shoe on if it seems there is a remote possibility of it fitting (and me extracting perhaps a salsa or two from the soles), I introspectively wondered if my indulgences were truly my own in the vast barren wasteland that is the blogosphere.

All too eager to give in to the misdirected affront, I tucked the thought into my subconscious to address it another day when the sun wasn't shining and the air not so pristine. (Context is everything when it comes to introspection.)

Soon a few days passed and I received an email from a Parisienne reporter with Metropole Television in France wanting to investigate the sources for my Emperor Zillah entry. It seems extreme Sino-Franco commerce piqued their interest and I all too flattered was more than happy to send along any information I could. Which brings me back to the dark black tee shirt.

Digging through the well managed, delusional mess of my subconscious, visions of the smugster wearing the shirt emerged (never mind that I might have been that wise ass thirty years ago) and I had my answer.

"Speak for yourself pal. I have six readers who regularly ask after new content and a high flying seventh who will make Mad Man in Shanghai a truly international source soon to rival HuffPo."

The only advice I have for the uninspired twit – be original, save the fifty bucks and get off your ass and write.

Which is why after a six month hiatus I am again writing.

© Karl Shaffer 2012

Monday, June 18, 2012

When a villa just isn’t enough – Emperor Zillah.

Seriously.

Truth is stranger than fiction, even stranger than the infamous science fiction of Godzilla vs. Whoever, which, in a bizarre, déjà vu sort of way is exactly what I’m about to describe.

This, a dream of a viral “punk’d-op” skipped YouTube and rocketed to hyper-reality, Emperor Zillah is a real place.

Awash in ignorance as I question the appropriate meaning of “Zillah” to assign here, my fingers deftly head to Wikipedia. I look it up again with a strict aversion to sci-fi entries. It seems the British coined the term (of Hindi and Arabic derivation) around 1790 as they attempted to colonize India, it means: an administrative district in India. There’s literally nothing admin about this place although one could extrapolate it to mean the center of power. On to the next def, in a biblical context Zillah was one of two wives of Lamech. Gen. 4:19 – strike two, something more Babylonian might have worked. The USS Zillah, a patrol boat, probably not – this is the freakin' mothership. Sigh, Definitely not Zillah from Wuthering Heights. Zillah the vampire, perhaps in economic terms as this place could suck the life out of any mere millionaire.

Zillah for these purposes might best be applied in the context of a character of minimal significance in Flora Thompson’s Lark Rise to Candleford.  A novel describing the journey from a tiny village to a new, worldly town where the affects of the “new” impact an entire community as it moves from rural culture into the future.

Even though I’ve taken great liberties with the entire context, Lark Rise fits better than my initial inclination to settle for the "biggest, baddest, monster" def.

Allow me if I may, to transport you to epicenter of excess, slightly southeast of the Shanghai World Financial Center in the People’s Republic of China, of all places.

Emperor Zillah, the gated community introduced to Shanghai in 2008, is comprised of twenty-two, 9,000+ sq ft Zillahs (think châteaux) complete with swimming pools and your very own ½+ acre slab of prime real estate. This new Emperor will no doubt provide all of the bells and whistles to make the acute, affluently ordained olfactory nerves sturnutate at the scent of a “vanilla” villa.

The real world metaphors are Bel Air, West Chester County, and Lake Forest heavily influenced by Provence. You get the picture. The places where the so-called “American Dream” resides in Dolby® surround sound and dreamy white Technicolor®. These are the sort of places, where as newly anointed drivers, we loved to travel to from our mind-numbing, lower, middle class existence, just to do lawn jobs, steal real estate signs and ultimately live up to Frank Zappa’s exhortations of knocking the jockeys off the rich people’s lawns.

Those were days of American capitalism at its shiny best and we of limited means needed a piece of it. Hell, it was that hunger that empowered Risky Business to become the road map of a lost generation in search of a short cut to fiscal irresponsibility. 

We actually believed we were the center of the universe because our government acted like it.

$750 billion dollars not once, but twice later, and after leaving the land of super-sized getting downsized, and a government relegated to self-inflicted grid-lock, I have inadvertently found that delta at the end of the Great River of Money.

China.

The diamond encrusted Lambo-bling.
It is a place where a late boomer such as myself can become easily confused between capitalism and materialism. A place where the excesses of consumption relegate the bling of Jay-Z and Liberace to mere nomenclature on the Lamborghini. The Chinese super rich are as mesmerised as barracudas when it comes to “shiny new objects”. And while the audacity of out doing the western world on its own materialistic terms seems hilarious at first in the form of Emperor Zillah – it is the potent, hi-octane fueling the fires in the bellies that keep this juggernaut a churn.

They are buying the dream as we once did with wholehearted government endorsement. And unlike what we had, a fiercely protective government and society, that while friendly to outsiders, rarely if ever allows them into the inner sanctum. And it seems rightly so at this point, to this casual observer.

The Chinese people are getting a taste of limited freedom promised by a series of five-year plans that has put them nearly a generation ahead of the economic reformers' (primarily Zhoa Enlai and Deng Xiaoping) projections of the seventies, eighties and nineties. (A different story that lends credence to Jesse Ventura’s concept of a no-party political system where officials work for, imagine that, the people!) They are pushing it to the limits both literally and figuratively. They work hard (any less would be a personal embarrassment by subscribing to the morays of the welfare states of the west [How dare everyone expect a trophy!]) and they play hard.

Two weekends past, 34 Ferraris were caught (well almost, it seems 26 eluded capture) racing from Shanghai to Zhejiang hitting top speeds of 213 kph or 134 mph on the public interstate on their way to, jeah – a racetrack.



This is the wide-eyed, irrepressible howl of change.

The initial gust of a jeweled, pavé encrusted typhoon, these are the early symptoms of an urban existence left behind as the glimmering yellow brick road transports the Chinese dream at warp speed (or minimum at the speed of a 458 Spider). The Chinese people have a vision and it is surpassing the western version of materialism as it drags the populist into an era of consumption amidst dimming Confucian virtues.

In August of 2011, after a five month housing slump, the Zillah roared to the rescue leading a resurgence, when one 850-square-meter (9150 sq ft) unit fetched 135 million Yuan, or $21.3 million US. They build more.

When I was a kid there was a crazy American who once had a dream ( ... no not that one – he was sane by comparison) inspired by an awe of the immense potential of an alien nation comprised of 800 million people (which he new would quickly grow to over 1.2 billion within a generation). 800 million people he marveled to his henchman "What might they someday accomplish?" Perhaps more significantly, there seemed to be a sentiment of "We may not beat them so let's preemptively plan to join them".

So, he asked Hank to open the door. 

Unfortunately, that crazy man went completely, and then fell, of the wall.
A generation passed before we actually decided to step through that door. 

Ironically, Zhou and Deng exhibited the testicular fortitude and then some, of Richard Nixon as they introduced ideas contradictory to the Chinese Communist hardline of the time that could have killed them. These ideas embodied elements of free market economies. (Zhou worked with Kissinger to open China to the US visits in the early seventies. Deng is generally credited with developing China into one of the fastest growing economies in the world, improving the standard of living for hundreds of millions of Chinese.)

So, as Chinese tastes rewrite the menu of the material world we once consumed, the much anticipated Zillah of an ideological show down seems to have quietly passed with barely a struggle under the auspices of materialism. The aging, lone world superpower wallows in an uninspired political, anti-dream time, while a new, aspiring one dreams in 24 karat, hallucinicolor. One society seems to be looking to drive Bentleys, Bugattis and Ferraris, as the other seems to be resigning itself to pulling richshaws.

What happens next might be one of the few good things to come of the Nixonian era, an outlandish dream of an ambitious (and hopefully purehearted) individual asking "What if?", becoming the kick in the ass that America needs to again empower her people. 

In the interim, I, being a recent political agnostic since "sleeping with Hope and awakening with a corpse", am looking forward to again returning to my middle class roots via the road to a new Chinese driver's license.

Shanghainese lawn jockeys prepare for battle.

© 2012 Karl Shaffer

Sunday, June 3, 2012

We have an SUV vs. Sherpa on a motor scooter.

1 – 90 seconds after impact            2 – Eight minutes after impact        3 – 40 minutes after impact      

At about 9:00p or so, on a recent Thursday evening we were about to sit down and catch-up on ER. Yeah, the show now relegated to syndication that helped launched that talented thespian, George Clooney (who happens to be bigger than ever here in Shanghai). It is one of the few shows Kris has ever watched. I rarely, if ever watched it, because I was usually preoccupied by work or some such psychotic endeavor.

Here in Shanghai ER is easy to watch, simply because the television programming is pretty bad. (If we watched more than an hour or so a day things would be pretty dire.) Luckily we do get the major tennis tournament and seasonally, in the fall, my favorite spectacle, bull fighting! (More on this later.)

We get to see The Voice, Hawaii 5-0 and the ubiquitous CSIs if we choose. Frankly, my interests begin and end narrowly with Mad Men, which I have to score on iTunes.

Thanks to the wonder of CDs we can relive the glory years of ER.

So, as I was saying we were about to sit down to another episode featuring Doug’s indiscretions, when I hear a loud crash. Initially it sounds like a sound F/X of a gurney busting through the ICU doors on the show.

Within seconds it becomes clear that it was actually a mishap on the street near our building.

I hurry to the balcony to see what’s up. It’s a collision at the intersection below. It looks pretty serious as I scan the scene. There’s a small SUV stopped just past the apex point of a left hand turn and a person lying on the pavement ten feet or so away. There is also a scooter about 20 feet away. It seems the person on the ground was a deliveryman from a local service called Sherpa’s (even in the dim light of the intersection I see the trademark orange and black logo).

Two or three passersby surround the person on the ground, bending to briefly inspect him/her. Immediately they were on their cell phones calling for help. I see the Sherpa move albeit very, very slowly.

After five minutes there is no sign of police or ambulance in the vicinity. I'm expecting Carter and Malucci to come running to the scene with the stolen EMR tool kits in hand.

Our doctor’s advice rings gravely accurate, “in the case of emergency take a taxi to the western hospital across the river” it’s your best bet for urgent care.

Soon the passersby grew to a small crowd of about ten, all of which were concerned though not assisting. I was surprised to see the SUV driver still in attendance, or seemingly so, because the vehicle was still there. In China the law is pretty clear (as I understand it) that if a driver injures or disables a person in an accident and it is determined to be the driver’s fault, the injured person is entitled to be supported for life by the driver at fault. It is a quick process relative to courtroom processes and litigation in the US.

It is also emphatically advised that if you do see such a mishap that you do not by any means assist the victim, as you could be held accountable for any injuries incurred – even in an effort to help.

However, this system has recently had its setbacks. It seems that the fine for a driver at fault for killing a person can be less, much less, than the cost of life-long support for the maimed.  This has given rise to the Chinese urban legend (and harsh reality) of guilty drivers killing their victims at the scene. In a horrific case a couple of years ago, a driver repeatedly backed-up and ran over a four year-old boy who happened to have been right behind the car. The initial incident was definitely an accident the subsequent actions were intentional and the boy died as a result.


The incident caused an outrage but not enough of one to prevent the well to do guilty party from paying a fine and walking.

There was an even more deliberate killing at the hands of an affluent young driver in 2010. When after he struck a peasant woman, he got out of his vehicle to evaluate the situation whereupon he found the woman (not fatally injured) writing down his license number. He acted deliberately and decisively, stabbing her eight times – killing her. http://www.ministryoftofu.com/2011/04/chinese-public-opinion-demands-execution-of-a-student-accuses-state-tv-for-siding-murderers/

His reasoning was “not to be pestered by peasants.” In this case the driver was executed after a short trial.

Bordering on 8 minutes since impact (cognoscente of time with an eye on my cell phone clock) and finally I hear a siren. It seems to be an opportunistic proprietor of a wrecker/tow truck. Now, I'm convinced as the television subtext is exclaiming, "the patient is bleeding out!" The crowd was growing still larger as some of the concerned seemed to now form a barrier around the Sherpa (much like water buffaloes protecting their young) while others directed traffic in a chaotic manner.

Finally, a police cruiser and two motorcycle officers arrive at the scene.

One officer begins to clear pedestrians and the other walks up to inspect the Sherpa. The officer was careful not to move the victim as he walked around the extremities. He did seem to be talking with the victim though.

It's now about 12-15 minutes or so later and the officers are now talking to witnesses. This process lasts for another 15-20 minutes. All while the poor Sherpa lies on the pavement virtually motionless. For over a half an hour, I expect an ambulance any second.

What happens next can only be described as  “Gilliam-ly” surreal (as in Brazil).

Incredulously, the officers begin their accident scene investigation. Apparently, they deduce that the Sherpa, while incapacitated, is not in need. The two officers pull out a tape measure and begin documenting the scene. The Sherpa is motionless on the pavement. They measure from the fender of the SUV to the point at which the Sherpa lies. Then the distance from the SUV to the point of the crunched motor scooter is recorded. Once the primary measurements are out of the way an intricate series of geometric measurements ensues. The distances from the SUV bumper to the light post at the right corner, then to a more acute traffic light post on the same side. These measurements take another 10 to 15 minutes.

At this point the Sherpa still isn’t moving. He seems resided to accept his fate.

After the measurements seem to be complete the officer again approaches the Sherpa in a more compassionate manner, he kneels to speak with him.  Simultaneously, a siren is wailing in the distance, soon the crowd clears enough to allow an ambulance to enter the vicinity.

Two medics attend to the Sherpa for about 10 minutes and finally with the help of the officer get him onto a stretcher and into the back of the ambulance. It takes another five minutes before the ambulance leaves the scene.

Once the ambulance is gone the wrecker is allowed to move the SUV and the motor scooter is hoisted to a small flatbed, both are ferried away.

Traffic is back to normal in a few minutes and the Sherpa (fate unknown to this observer) is a commemorated by a few chalk stripes on the pavement.

I am reminded of a very short and bizarre conversation I had with a young woman a few days earlier as we crossed an intersection a few blocks north of the accident site. Stepping of off a curb simultaneously we were “flown-bye” by a taxi. He was well in control of his cab and yet too close for comfort as he came within a foot of the two of us. This is common and generally happens two to three times at any intersection crossing as drivers make left hand turns not one at a time, but in loose formations of up to six vehicles at a time, depending on the window in oncoming traffic. Understand that while the crossing light may say cross, it in no way implies pedestrians have right of way.


All drivers commonly assume this game of rock, paper, scissors is succinctly understood by pedestrians – buses crush cars and taxis, cars and taxis take-out pedestrians and pedestrian can only stop tanks.

We both continued to cross and I sarcastically narrated aloud thinking no one was listening "they aren’t even that good in New York City." My amused comrade said, “This is Shanghai – they’re crazy.”

I wondered if that was really true, after all, even craziness values life.

They wouldn't depict so many crazy people in ER if that weren't true would they?

© 2012 Karl Shaffer


Friday, May 11, 2012

Amy, the Ayi. Mmmmmm. Part two

Amy it seems, has a great passion for cooking and she's quite good at it.

The last time Amy was the subject of conversation we were suspended in "wait and see" mode. I had instituted a moratorium on celebratory dinners to seriously reconsider my abilities to identify anyone who might be effective at anything here in Shanghai. Add the variables of an Ayi's duties and well, Shanghai's pristine patina tarnishes a bit and it's alter ego "Shanghai-ed" seems to emerge with the intensity of aliens in Ridley Scott's new film. 

New places can be that way, particularly if you're not a tourist or native.

The essence of existence is quite similar to floating. You're a part of things and yet you aren't. It can be good and bad as I've related to this point. With regard to Amy, it seems to be good, things are working much better.

Our common phonetic/mime vocabulary seems to be getting more finite. I'm learning Mandarin (Amy insists on a Shanghainese dialect) and she is learning English by virtue of our nondescript accents.

Amy is on time everyday now except when the elevator is slow (come again?). Ah, yes, the "slow elevator" it takes about a minute per story so when Amy arrives at 9:20a it's generally it's  because the elevator was on Huangpu River cruise control. It's funny because Amy is so emphatic about making sure I understand that it is the elevator and not Amy who was late.The longer I live here the more credible these explanations seem and generally the more widely accepted I see they are in the culture. 

"Okay, yeah, you're right the elevator was late, no worries, cheers!"

Once she has determined that I believe her (you know with that inquisitive albeit, reluctant puppy dog "well do I get a treat or not" look), acknowledging my nod, she's off like a shot to the chores at hand.

Within the hour she's taken care of straightening-up three bedrooms, four bathrooms, the kitchen, dining room, living room and as non-intrusively as possible the office. All impeccably done. She's like Molly Maid on brown/clears (those of you born after 1970 are just going to have to trust me). Invariably as she enters the office she looks to see what I'm up to. I always have the sense that she keeps a notebook and reports back to the Red Army on my behavior. I'm even starting to believe this whole "I don't understand English thing" is a front (I feel so at home in that wonderful Chinese province of Paranoia).

Regardless, usually by 10:00a or so she has the first load of laundry in the washer and is back in the office asking "Mista, mǐfàn?" Which I interpret as "do you want me to cook today?" (It actually means, Mista do you want cooked rice?) In any event, if the answer is yes, Amy demands that the driver be ready to go by 10:30a if it's any later she becomes agitated. (Mr. Zhao our driver has related to me that he thinks she is pig-headed because of her insistence.)

This day we do want Amy to cook.

Promptly at 10:30a (depending on if the elevator is slow) we, the butcher, the baker and the candlestick maker, are on our way to the ATM for the shopping allowance of RMB (the well protected Chinese currency). I ask Amy how much she'll need and she counts in her best English to ten and then in Mandarin up to fifteen indicating that she needs 1500 RMB. Recently, I've noticed the amount has crept up from 1000 or 1100 RMB. A little perplexing because she always brings back 400-500 RMB in change. Frugality seems to be a source of pride for many Chinese and this is Amy's way of saying "Hey mista, I'm getting some great deals for you here!" As I finish counting out 1500 clams (an acceptable denomination in any language) Amy and Mr. Zhao are off bantering back and forth about whether Obama is a warlord or a coward regarding events in the South China Sea.

This is evident because Amy, with furled brow, squints more intently than usual while posturing in the backseat as if aiming two fists full of semi automatic 9mms (think Schwarzenegger muttering "Hasta La vista baby") while exclaiming "Obama, dud-dud-dud-dut!" (A widely accepted Sino sound effect for semi automatic weapon fire.) Mr. Zhao in an amused voice waves her off saying "Obama, no dud-dud-dud-dut!" He does the extended pinky and thumb call-me gesture, "Vietnam call Obama, say Obama help, help! Obama, say me sink." Mr. Zhao then impersonates Obama rubbing his chin in mock consideration for dramatic effect before delivering the punchline, "Obama say, No help Vietnam!" They both laugh hysterically. It's as funny as any John Stewart newscast. 

All joking aside, at either extreme, it's a US foreign policy failure by any standard. 

I'm just happy Amy and Mr. Zhao haven't "dud-dud-dud-dut-ed" each other. That means the shopping will get done, hopefully in time for Mr. Zhao to get my daughter where she needs to be later that afternoon.  

Four and a half hours, and five stores later, Amy is back with the groceries. She is talking 110 miles an hour about how hard it is to find some of the items on the list. Ultimately she grabs the check-out ribbon and goes down the list of items she couldn't get. Pointing to an item "Mista, méiyǒu!" (Mista, there weren't any) then to the next item "méiyǒu!" on it goes until I start to think that méiyǒu is a preexisting condition.

At about 3:30p the groceries are unpacked, Amy motions at me to leave the kitchen. She unceremoniously shoos me away as a snobby, French pantry chef might. It's hilarious to see her, back arched forward, arms extended, flicking her wrists so her fingers snap as if the tail of a whip to shoo me out. 

"I'm good, just make sure to honor the no cooking oil – particularly no Chinese cooking oil* request and we're cool."

An hour or so passes and she emerges from the kitchen to summon me from the office. She hands me a set of chopsticks motioning for me try what she has prepared. Earlier we had decided that she would make green beans with ground pork and a slightly altered spicy, chicken and pepper dish.

She watches eagerly as I taste the green beans, which I am pleasantly surprised by – they are (as Tony would say) great! There is enough garlic to keep things interesting and the beans are al dente, she mildly seasoned the pork bringing an added dimension and timing that could easily have been just another dull vegetable accompaniment.

Then it's on to the spicy chicken.

As I lift the first bite via chopsticks, I drop it. She tries to wrest the sticks from me as if to say "Do I need to feed you too?" It's my turn to shoo her away "Chill gurl, I got this!" She rolls her eyes as if she'd learned from Aretha herself (Amy, don't tell me you don't understand English). I taste the chicken and it is better than the first dish. "Wow, mmmm, Amy this is really good." I try to snag a few more pieces before Amy has the time to get me a fork. As spicy goes, it has heat and great flavor. She uses three different varieties of peppers from very hot to sweet and the subtleties are amazing.

Damn, this is good. And I thought Yan could cook!

She looks at me pensively, asking "Good?!?" I say "yeah, very good!" again she asks "Good??" as if to savor the moment. I give in "Amy, this is very, very good, xièxie!" (Thank you.) Amy, modestly, with eyebrows piqued and eyes-wide bows and says with her trademarked show of gratitude "Sank you Mista, sank you."

It's nearly 5:00p and Amy is about to leave but not before painstakingly "plating" the serving dishes so as to impress "baby and Ms. Kris". I have to say Martha Stewart might learn a thing or two from her where aesthetics are concerned. 

Soon Amy is out the door with a "bye-pie Mista, zàijiàn!" (farewell).

Meanwhile, I'm back in the kitchen sneaking a bit of the newly reinstated celebratory dinner.

* – China is cracking down on swill shops that will render-down anything under the sun and sell it to non-government conforming cooking oil brands looking to make a fast buck by selling it. It is literally poison.

© 2012 Karl Shaffer

Saturday, March 10, 2012

The year of the dragon is upon us, mercilessly devouring all in its path.


As the dragon rages so to do appetites. Moguls, seek Bentleys adorned with Swiss embroidered dragons on supple leather headrests, and women seek unattached (or not*) men to father babies blessed by the dragon.

Shanghai January 19, 2012.
The IFC (International Financial Center) Mall is a buzz, literally, for the Chinese New Year.

Six months ago the IFC Mall could have convinced many that it was the biggest luxury brand loss leader on the planet. It was often as deserted as many of the office-plex, ghost towns in western China. However, the Christmas holidays saw steady increases in IFC crowds. (For reasons unbeknownst to me since as of March 8, 2012 one still hears Christmas carols regularly in public venues – JC is smiling.) By the time Chinese New Year rolled around IFC was packed. Crowds at Cartier, Bvlgari and Tiffany & Co. were a common occurrence. And they weren’t just window-shopping. This was obscene carat consumption.

The year of the dragon launched a full-scale assault on the Armani, Dior and Louis Vuitton alliance with no end in site. It’s party time in Shanghai. (Those readers with experience should think USA 1999, or on a more sentimental note of naïveté, April 1, 1971 in Ann Arbor.) The mood is for the moment and people are ready to throw caution to the wind.

CitySuper is the Shanghai equivalent of Whole Foods and it is the reactor at the core of IFC on L2. A convenient location since both the Billionaire with Bentley driver await in the garage, and the Yuanaire running for the subway can conveniently swing in for that imported bottle of French or Italian wine (the safe stuff) or that imported box of Australian or New Zealand dairy (again, the safe stuff). During CNY “Super” is just that (read as Whole Foods on mega-party steroids). So potent is the party opiate that it spills beyond normal bounds of the exotic retailer and into breezeway kiosks to intercept the unsuspecting young Chinese women before they head underground.

The shiny, twinkling, little lure, that is the object of affection this nanosecond is a shot glass full with Scotch – as in whiskey.

There are small groups of three or four young women in their early twenties, chattering and giggling as they loiter about. The chattering ambiance is occasionally shattered by a convulsive explosion of jet black hair emanating from the epicenter of declining consciousness in Tonic-clonic fashion as shots are slammed. Upon reentry, the dazed and red faced consumptresses ignore the Scotch whiskey docent earnestly trying to enlighten them to the finer points of the Scotch they had just vaporized. 

Single malt, blended malt, cask and age differences, and the implications of the Scotch Whiskey act of 1988 as precursor to the revision of 2009 are cast awash in this tipsy sea of femininity.

These girls where there to accomplish one objective and there was no better way to do it than with free, 40% by volume shots. The math would indicate that small, Asian women on average of 90-100 lbs would, after 3 shots, have a BAC of 0.14 (effectively well-oiled on the Laphroaig scale) and just in time to enjoy a piloted Silver Spur or Silver Streak cruise to their next orgy of consumption.

It was after all only 4:15p and there were baby dragons to be made.

 * – perceptions from the February 2012 article "She Said, She Said" in That's Shanghai magazine.
© 2012 Karl Shaffer

Friday, March 9, 2012

Let a sleeping dragon lie (unless you're an alien).


The dark room with surreal reception desk, sans men in black.
A few weeks after the IFC mall episode of Slammers, I was meandering through the French concession while cold calling for a school fundraiser. I happened upon an anonymous dark wooden door in Sinan Mansions on Fuxing Lu (another upscale development of restaurants and flagship stores). Unassumingly, I slipped in looking for the manager or proprietor. Within seconds, three men in black, quietly descended upon me, two at each side, the third hurriedly secured the door; triple checking to make sure it was locked. Their stealth nature was terrifying in a manner that a simply muttered "we're going get mid-evil on you" isn't. I was escorted to a dark receiving room where there were a few more men in black and, what occurred to me as quite surreal, a reception desk. 

It dawned on me that if I did have a card up my sleeve, I had better play it. Now.  The only image that came to me in this Tarot moment of faith was that of an alien. So I went for it with the ubiquitous and basic “take me to your leader” approach. 

The receptionist asked me to patiently wait and he (the nocturnal alpha-male) would be summoned.

I paced for a few moments giving reason for my two escorts to be oddly nervous and edgy. I began to wonder if I had actually wandered into an opium den, after all it is Shanghai, and I saw nothing to warrant the paranoia of agents J & K. Looking about, I began seeing some very attractive women. They were giants from the Yao Ming dimension, six-foot tall, perfect, petite Asian features and they too were dressed in the black team uniform. This seemed to be a break area or staging area... but for what? As seconds ticked by I was sure wherever I was, definitely was not legal. Either I would be cast into the abyss, or unceremoniously booted back onto the street after a Red Army, Code Red. As a few more haute, sleek, female beings floated by dragging my undivided attention along with them, I was interrupted by a tap on the shoulder.

I turned to be greeted by the Shanghainese Ryan Seacrest of this mysterious place. He introduced himself as Henry. Immediately I inform Henry that I had been beamed-up on account of him committing to 15,000 RMB ($2500 USD) for a school fundraiser on behalf of whatever business he was willing to own up to before I was either cooked or shown the door.

Henry smiled and informed me that this was Johnny Walker House and that I had entered an invitation only event – without invitation. It was starting to make sense. I mean they did build the Great Wall after all (fortunately, for me the dark wooden door worked about as well the Wall did against the Mongols). As Henry seemed to make his move directing me to the door, I remembered an event Bentley had sponsored in the Mansions a few months back and asked if they had been an affiliate, to which Henry said he wished, but sadly Bentley had more partners than needed.

Sacrificing my good sense in the interest of childhood curiosity and situational longevity, I blurted out “Maybe I can help with that, I’ve worked with a few premium automobile brands and would love the opportunity to present Johnny Walker (Black) House as a potential partner”. He asked how I new about the various luxury brands, so I gave him the 411. Turns out his employer was owned by one of my former employers, Sir Martin Sorrell's WPP Group. By this point Henry detected my enthusiasm for whatever it was I was in the midst of and offered me a tour.

How could I not accept?

The still.
We strolled past personal artifacts of Mr. Walker to the still, an immaculately designed, monochromatic copper model representing the entire distilling process. I listened as a small tour in progress was given the VO in Mandarin. It was the basis for our next stop. We took the narrow black staircase up to the second floor – a lounge and tasting room (as pictured). We were greeted by agents L&M piquing my curiosity since J&K were right behind us. “Hmmm, there must be more than Johnny Walker Black up here – it’s good but not that good (as the likes of both Hunter Thompson and my good friend Charles would indeed attest to).”

The "proofing" room.
Then as we made our way toward the circular bar attended by reserved, understated, wealthy Chinese women, one of the female point guards from Yao's black team gracefully went baseline to my right. She slowly turned and sat in one, smooth motion as if in a slow-mo replay on the jumbo-tron. She sat as still as the 24 foot tall, 15 ton, silver Buddha in Jing'an Temple.

It was then that I noticed that she was dripping with about $250K in jewels.

A diamond and Sapphire necklace had a choke hold on her long neck as it cascaded down her chest. Now it all made sense, they had mistaken me for Bill Mason. I had entered the nerve center of the Agent Alphabet. I wholly expected to see TLJ and the Fresh Prince, blasters in hand any second. My eyes adjusted to the low light and brilliant shimmering jewels. I began to see a few more members of the black feline team strategically positioned around the room also adorned with some very heavy and colorful ice. 

It was the perfect trap to capture the spellbound dragon's attention. 

A bit of single malt Scotch, a bit more of the blended, then progressing up the smoothness ladder, and soon the desire is overwhelming.  The women attending the lecture at the bar will, very soon, feel the unmitigated urge have to have diamonds, rubies and pearls. And they'll have been emboldened by Johnny to not take "no" for an answer. Why should they? It is Shanghainese lore that their husbands buy 911s with a carry-on suitcase full of cash, repeat the process for their mistresses and then again, finally, for their wives. It is the perfect combination of desire, revenge and vanity. (More on how they get this kind of money another time).

The "shot" room.
Henry lead me to another lounge with a shimmering ceiling. Upon closer inspection, I was mesmerized. The entire ceiling was composed of undulating rows of inverted, back-lit shot glasses. 

The room full of stars (a history of the break-through concoctions).
Up one more floor to an area designated for the Cohiba smokers of Shanghai. As we stepped into the elevator I was again agog. We were completely encased in a hammered, copper vault, as if we would be fermented if an elevator malfunction should occur. And there in one corner was a copper cane resting against the wall and in the opposite corner a copper top hat. A nice homage to the man.

The man, Johnny.
Soon we were back on the first floor. I complimented Henry on the awesome experience. It was the best personification of a brand I had ever experienced in 10 minutes. As we traded cards I gave Henry one more wholehearted pitch for the 15,000 RMB and left.

Reentering the parallel universe on Fuxing Lu I was brought back to reality full force as I negligently bumped into another stranger who, with the tip of his hat, was kind enough to overlook my clumsiness, and wish me a good day. 


Soon with a wink and a nod, I was on my merry way – walking.

Johnny Walker House Images courtesy of Johnny Walker, Asylum and love.
Text © 2012 Karl Shaffer

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

A rainbow of Grey = Mamahuhu.

Mamahuhu: horse, horse, tiger, tiger – literally.
It means "just ok".  It isn't good. It isn't bad.
It just is. Just as it is grey.
It's been about twenty days on since we've seen the sun.

I thought Natalie Merchant's sentiments seem quite appropriate.

February 21, 2012

The color of the sky as far as I can see is coal grey.
Lift my head from the pillow and then fall again.
With a shiver in my bones just thinking about the weather.
A quiver in my lips as if I might cry.

February 22, 2012

Well by the force of will my lungs are filled and so I breathe.
Lately it seems this big bed is where I never leave.

February 24, 2012

Shiver in my bones just thinking about the weather.
Quiver in my voice as I cry,

February 26, 2012

"What a cold and rainy day. Where on earth is the sun hid away."

February 29, 2012

I hear the sound of a noon bell chime. Now I'm far behind.
You've put in 'bout half a day while here I lie

March 1, 2012

with a shiver in my bones just thinking about the weather.
A quiver in my lip as if I might cry,
"What a cold and rainy day. Where on earth is the sun hid away?"

March 2, 2012

Do I need someone here to scold me
or do I need someone who'll grab and pull me out of this
four poster dull torpor pulling downward.

March 4, 2012

For it is such a long time since my better days.
I say my prayers nightly this will pass away.
The color of the sky is grey as I can see through the blinds.
Lift my head from the pillow and then fall again.

March 6, 2012

with a shiver in my bones just thinking about the weather.
A quiver in my voice as I cry,

March 7, 2012

"What a cold and rainy day. Where on earth is the sun hid away?"
I shiver, quiver, and try to wake.

For it is such a long time since my better days.